Something Curated highlights the best from London Fashion Week, taking a closer look at a selection of the most exciting Spring/Summer 2019 shows and collections.
Jonathan Anderson touched on traditional feminine tropes this season with lace, doily-looking fabrics and frilled edges. His signature extended silhouettes and oversized proportions manifested in peasant skirts and languid shapes. Long cotton dresses and wide trousers brushed passed the audience as models walked in their adapted Converse or slack, crinkled boots.
For his fourth season showing with Fashion East, Asai Ta introduced a number of tailored pieces, a change from his previous work, including an oil slick coat and a wide utilitarian waist belt with flap pockets. Ta featured prints reminiscent of a Chinese porcelain vase, rendered in embroidery and sequins, alongside rainbow coloured tie-dye designs seen on cape tops and voluminous blouses.
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Spring Summer 2019 💥 look 1 💥 thank you so so much to @fashion_east @_lulukennedy @natasha_booth @raphaellemoore @sophiejewes Jeanne Terrier @starworksgroup for all the support, love you guys 💕💕💕xx Styling @georgia.pendlebury Casting @arqa_cast Make up @annesophiecosta Hair @tinadidit Nails @laurenmichellepires Jewellery @slimbarrett (thank you Jules as well for everything) Sunglasses @generaleyewear Prints @fionalucy Music @freeka_tet @amnesiascanner Showroom @the_alphabet_london Words @helefletcher Interns extraordinaire @lena_eiram @marinahacking And our amazing sponsors: @maccosmetics @dyson @nailsinc Thankyou so much for the support! @dandvmanagement @streetersldn @clmagency @mybeautifulcity @trumanbrewery @1Granary and everyone else supporting us and believing in us! #fashion #lingerie #underwear #future #hyperfemininity #pearls
Also showing under the Fashion East umbrella, Charlotte Knowles opened her show with a red corseted look that integrated a a halter-neck bikini – an ensemble which aptly set the tone for the rest of the collection. A nostalgic, graphic rose print reoccurred, adorning fitted leggings and Lycra shorts, with dangling straps and ties. The label presented a series of looks for a strong, confident and futuristic woman, with a meticulous focus on details.
For this season, Erdem Moralioglu’s muses were two Victorian men, cross-dressers who became nightlife celebrities in their time. The designer staged his SS19 show at the National Portrait Gallery, a pertinent setting for a collection exploring the construction of identity. Indistinct prints of roses appeared on fitted jackets and a dress with angular shoulders, while another floral design adorned long or ruched dresses, featuring corseted waists.
Kiko Kostadinov’s burgeoning label introduced womenswear this season, overseen by sisters Deanna and Laura Fanning, who graduated from Central Saint Martins’ master’s programme only seven months ago. As with Kostadinov’s menswear offering, the collection explored innovations in cut and intelligent detailing, manifesting in a diverse palette spanning soft pinks and camel, to bright red and an eye-catching purple.
The floor at Ashish Gupta’s SS19 show was covered with miscellaneous scraps of carpet and vinyl, with an ambience that evoked a basement party. Emblazoned with the words “S&M Sex and Magic”, a sequin embellished hoodie paid homage to the famed photographer Robert Mapplethorpe, followed by a series of gender non-specific, glittering party gear, including sequined bikini bottoms, off-shoulder sequined shifts, dresses, tracksuits and miniskirts.
Simone Rocha’s clothes are distinctly textural, and her latest collection was no exception. Rocha turned to the women’s hairstyles of China’s Tang dynasty, and antique market reproductions of famous female portraits for this collection, an eruption of embroidered flowers on tulle, long veils and rotund shapes in generous proportions.
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Adwoa backstage at SS19 Thank you so much Styling #AliceGoddard Hair @lukehersheson using @johnfriedauk Make up @hiromi_ueda with @maccosmeticsuk Nails @saffrongoddard Music by #Earthlings Shoes by @charleskeithofficial 💗 Production @mybeautifulcity Massive thank you to @daisy_hoppen @lauramlinden and everyone at DH-PR 💖
For her SS19 offering, Molly Goddard utilised commonplace fabrics like cotton-poplin and chiffon to create a series of relaxed pieces, from tailored trousers to loose tunics. In her signature style, an abundance of frills were added onto the hems of white shirts or on the necks of bright polka-dot skirts, while flowery brooches were appliquéd onto blazers and loose dresses.
Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman have become recognised for their whimsical and audaciously bright ready-to-wear line. This season the label shone a light on plastic pollution in the world’s oceans. The pair joined forces with Plastic Oceans U.K., the first British charity to focus on plastic pollution in the sea, designing a collection inspired by water.
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❤️ @akellopatricia so beautiful shot by the fab @hunterabrams for @thelovemagazine and thank you everyone ❤️thanks as always @kegrand @mandilennard @bitton @coach @mirandajoyce @sydhayeshair @joshwoodcolour @maccosmeticsuk @establishmentny @steve__mackey @stuartvevers @stephenjonesmillinery @ginashoesofficial @blonsteinproductions @britishfashioncouncil ❤️ ❤️ @rarethread @casc8 @begoniapeterson @nickbovan @jackypuzey @chris.made.this @lisamcconniffe @greg___harper and my amazing studio team ❤️ big thanks to @gilesdeacon_ @misscatherinerussell @oliver_volquardsen @melanieeashley @paul_flynn @robbiemailerhowat @babylissprouk @angiekurdash @annamarie.scott 🖤🖤🖤#newgen #mattybovan #coachny
With towering hats made from pots and pans, kitchen utensils and feather dusters, Matty Bovan’s models sported corset dresses made from crochet layers, big puffs of tulle and coloured ribbons. Taking inspiration from 80’s filmmaker Derek Jarman, Bovan wanted to convey an overabundance of information, with convoluted dresses featuring webs of flowery knits, string bikini tops, tangles of thread and gleaming metallic textiles.
Feature image: Erdem SS19 (via Pinterest)