Something Curated’s LCM SS17 Roundup

J.W. Anderson

Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson established J.W. Anderson in 2008. The success of this debut collection earned both critical acclaim and commercial success for Anderson, whose label is now regarded as one of London’s most innovative and forward thinking brands. Its unique design aesthetic offers a modern interpretation of masculinity by creating thought-provoking silhouettes through a conscious cross-pollination between menswear and womenswear elements.

Creating a notably wearable wardrobe for his “little prince”, Anderson’s fictitious muse, the designer presented a collection inspired by child’s play. Models wore aviator goggles and crowns that looked like they could have been made out of coral, button down tunics in puzzle prints, bags adorned with eccentric medallions, jumpsuits that appeared to be the designer’s take on a onesie, and knits with elongated sleeves trailing on the catwalk.

 

Grace Wales Bonner

Recent Central Saint Martin’s grad, Grace Wales Bonner, continues to develop on her gender fluid fashion, drawing heavily once again on black identity and sexuality for her latest collection. Her signature aesthetic, an approach previously showcased at Fashion East presentations, has been notably scaled up in anticipation of her debut solo performance, not least through the inclusion of high quality tailoring which looks set to become fundamental to her repertoire.

This season’s offering included smooth shouldered jackets with voluminous sleeves and neatly pinched waists combined with ruffles, crochet collars and glittering bead work in a collection entitled Ezekiel, inspired by the crowning of the Ethiopian emperor in 1930.

 

Craig Green

London-born Craig Green gained a cult following soon after his graduation from Central Saint Martins, with taste-making stores like Dover Street Market and Milan’s 10 Corso Como stocking his early pieces. Exploring notions of uniform, utility and a sense of community, Green’s aesthetic synchronously appeals to a sense of functionalism and flamboyance.

Green’s latest collection references a breadth of inspirations, including the Scouts, an establishment the designer was a member of as a child, Indian holy men, and rugby kits. Influenced previously by traditional Chinese dress, seen in the wrap trousers of his SS15 collection, this season, the designer looked at Indian draping, referencing images of pilgrims at river Ganges. The presentation of his SS17 collection came three weeks after he was awarded the BFC/GQ fund, which, in addition to considerable funding, will see the designer receive a year of high-level mentoring.

 

Xander Zhou

After studying fashion in the Netherlands, Chinese-born Xander Zhou established his label and studio in Beijing, where he quickly made a name for himself as a frontier menswear designer. Zhou was one of the first designers to showcase a collection during London Collections Men, presenting his work during the event’s inaugural year. In his designs, Zhou likes to explore the boundaries between form and function, as well as the unique qualities of the different fabrics he uses.

Finely striped shirts billowed, with bandana neckerchief bibs and halter style corsets wrapped around models’ waists. With sleeves extending far below fingertips, every shape was loose, comfortable and subtly rebellious. Zhou played around with diverse textures, tied together with the consistent presence of stripes, including magenta sparkling lurex, black PVC and frayed jersey. Overall the collection was notably wearable, with a clear focus on comfort.

 

Nasir Mazhar

Since his first show in 2013, Mazhar has established himself as a major name on the London show schedule. Born and bred in Leytonstone, his first foray into design came after he started making hats while working at a Brick Lane salon. While many designers still lag behind in terms of diversifying their runways, Mazhar has always led the charge.

Striking furs in marbled green and black were paired together with what could be described as loincloths, creating a look which resembled some kind of primordial warrior. Developing upon his well-known utilitarian aesthetic, bucket hats, cargo pants and utility vests were a reoccurring feature, along with Mazhar’s signature tracksuits in red, black and green as well as a variety of prints.

 

Aitor Throup

Aitor Throup, originally from Buenos Aires, Argentina, relocated to the UK in 1992. He graduated from the Royal College of Art with an MA in menswear, gaining acclaim for his graduate collection entitled, ‘When Football Hooligans Become Hindu Gods’. Throup opted to pursue his own projects off schedule for many years, and in addition to garment design, he illustrates and sculpts.

The conceptual design maverick, best known for his anatomical workwear, returned to London Collections Men this season, presenting a three-part performance, narrating the last 15 years of his “creative ego”. A team of masked models reanimated an unconscious puppet, theatrically moving the figure around the show space. The creation continually changed into a series of outfits described by the designer as “a collection of trans-seasonal prototypes”. The concept pieces from the show will be available to purchase on request at London’s Dover Street Market from June 14.

 

E. Tautz

Scottish-born Patrick Grant relaunched the defunct Norton subsidiary E. Tautz & Sons in 2009 as a ready to wear brand. In May 2015 Grant won the BFC/ GQ designer menswear fund sponsored by Vertu, part of a twelve month mentoring programme for his transformation of the label.

This season, sharply collared polo shirts with stylish long sleeves, collarless pullover shirts with half plackets in khaki, and, in Grant’s signature style, high waisted and generously pleated trousers, all featured. Jackets were double breasted and short, with low slung buttons and slightly dropped lapels. The garments were roomy, and elegantly proportioned with an air of old-fashioned sophistication.