Sushi Master Endo Kazutoshi’s Life in 7 Records
By Adam CoghlanYokohama-born chef and third-generation sushi master Endo Kazutoshi’s eponymous 16-seater restaurant at the Rotunda in White City is one of London’s most celebrated fine dining venues, and one of the most sought-after reservations in London.
Last week, after a months-long refurbishment, the restaurant reopened, with a full book for the foreseeable future. During the summer recess, Something Curated’s Adam Coghlan caught up with Kazutoshi at his favourite local record store Next Door Records on the Uxbridge Road in Shepherd’s Bush. There, with a glass of iced sparkling water in his hand, a jaunty Carhartt x Sacai cap on his head, his trademark thick-rimmed glasses, an open Japanese workwear jacket revealing a t-shirt with the word “POETS” across his chest, Ralph Lauren chino shorts and a pair of Air Max, the chef was very much off-duty and in his element: crate-digging, browsing records, selecting some of his favourites, and even being given a short spell on the store’s decks. The chef began collecting at the age of sixteen, continuing through the 1990s in his home city, often travelling into neighbouring Tokyo to shop in the city’s best record stores. He estimates that his collection now runs at about 1000, spanning techno, hip-hop, house, rock and punk.
But for the purposes of telling his story from the perspective of his current home in West London, he selected seven. This is what he had to say about them.
The Rolling Stones – The Rolling Stones
Endo Kazutoshi: For Japanese people – and for me when I was growing up – This was English music. It’s what we heard on the radio on the station Beat UK. It was my gateway to British music – very important.
David Bowie – Lady Stardust / Crystal Japan
EK: Similarly, Bowie to me, is UK music. When I first heard it (in Japan, we knew him more for acting), it was shocking. At a recent fishing trip in Cornwall, we went four hours listening to Radiohead, Red Hot Chilli Peppers and others and we didn’t catch a single fish. Then we put on Bowie. We landed 20 fish.
The Clash – The Clash
EK: In the late 80s, this is my memory of being first introduced to punk culture. In Yokohama, it was very easy to find and experience American culture, much less British culture. So it was through bands that The Clash that many of us first experienced that culture during that time.
Ultimate Breaks and Beats – Various Artists
EK: After the 90s, hip-hop arrived. This is what I listened to 90 percent of the time during the 90s. Lots of clubs opened in Yokohama and Toyko playing hip-hop, so this was our soundtrack.
Cornelius – Fantasma
EK: When I first heard this, I thought ‘this is music a different way.’
Joy Division – Atmosphere / She’s Lost Control
EK: Post-punk, I just find this music easy to listen to. Music to listen to between the other music.
Led Zeppelin – In Through the Out Door
EK: There’s no need to explain with Led Zep. Everyone knows Led Zep. It was an entrance to music and culture for us. I’ve played this a million times.
All photography by Michaël Protin. This interview was edited for clarity.