The Hidden Roosts of London’s Leading Fashion Designers
By Something CuratedSomething Curated takes a deeper a look behind the glamorous world of fashion. Under the glittering world of luxurious fabrics and intricate embellishments lies a grittier, more urban heart- the workhouse, where collections are conceived and are perfected for showroom presentation, where the electric aura of creativity and dreaming is excitingly palpable in all its uncertain and half-formed energy. In East London, behind many nondescript doors, lie many studios where designers and their assistants work night and day to ultimately produce these masterpieces that flash in and out of public eye in a night, in an instant. Here, we take a look a few of the spots where some of London’s most promising and avant-garde designers develop their craft.
Born in Hong Kong, Ryan Lo came to London to study fashion design, bringing with him his hyper-romantic vision. With Lo, expect the runways to be filled with frills, fluff and cotton candy pastel colours. The look is dreamy and super cute – a far cry from the edgier designs we often see offered during London Fashion Week. Lo works out of Mowlem Studios, a mix of photography, art, exhibition spaces, a stone’s throw from Victoria Park.
Insta: @ryanlostudio
Although his box-peak caps are his signature pieces, Nasir Mazhar should be noted for his ability to create a buzz in every one of his runway shows. Mazhar’s aesthetic combines futuristic accessories like muzzle masks and goggles with acid neon coloured clothes. Of Turkish-Cypriot heritage but London born, he mashes up both worlds to create a sort of rave army set to dominate a futuristic world. He works out of a studio in Forest Gate, E7 – reflective of his true East London roots where he was born.
Insta: @nasirmazhar
Erdem Moralioglu’s is known for his use of experimental textiles, vibrant prints, and detailed craftsmanship, selling out of his flagship store on South Audley street. However his studio is on Bethnal Green road is a contrast to the Mayfair flagship. Tucked away in Rich Mix, a community art and culture space offering cozy, plush, bright and inspiring interiors, Erdem’s studio is by contrast a long, stripped white room: a place where the designer can summon inspiration and create within a calm and focused environment. This is where he and his team cut, sew and handle the most lavish fabrics available. ERDEM’s collection always empowers women by combining graceful and feminine silhouettes with vibrant prints. We note a hint of provincial wanderlust in the interior design preferences of this Canadian-born British-Turkish maker. His clothing is lively and feminine, with his collections always containing a sort of sophisticated internationalism — complex and challenging to completely define, as he fuses different cultures’ fashion trends and histories seamlessly.
Insta: @erdemlondon
Phoebe English is young, but has already been recognised for her talents in using contrasting textiles and fabrics to create a modern luxury collection. Pieces aren’t perfect – with frayed hems and loose strands – but English’s aesthetic reflects her East London inspirations: it’s urban, organic, imperfect but also beautiful. English works just south of river at Art Hub Studios in Deptford.
Insta: @phoebeenglish,
Text: Jessica Cooper