Jonathan Saunders’ Refreshing Debut At DVF
By Something CuratedIt’s not any easy feat to stand out during the chaos of fashion month, but during a busy schedule of shows, Jonathan Saunders’ inaugural presentation for Diane von Furstenberg managed to achieve just that. Shown in a bright and airy Manhattan studio, Saunders offered an assertive and understated take on the iconic brand’s aesthetic.
The Scottish designer, well known for his work with prints and use of traditional silk screening techniques, graduated from Glasgow School of Art with a BA in Printed Textiles, and went on to complete an MA at Central Saint Martins in 2002. His graduate collection, which featured a series of brightly printed chiffon kaftans inspired by the Beatles’ Yellow Submarine album cover, won him the Lancome Colour Award.
When von Furstenberg announced Saunders as her heir this past May, the match seemed natural. Saunders, who closed his eponymous London-based line in December 2015, is recognised for his bold use of pattern and colour, something that he and DVF have in common. His debut at the house builds upon von Furstenberg’s existing spirit, established over the label’s forty-year-old history, but perceptibly filtered through his distinctive outlook. The relationship to the brand’s heritage is there, but this is intended as a new vision that will continue to inspire and empower a new generation.
The first collection under the helm of the newly appointed director is playful, bright and confident, featuring a selection of elegant and wearable dresses, separates and jackets in contrasting prints and colourways, alongside a thoughtful assortment of functional accessories. Saunders says, “I wanted to create desirable clothes that are effortless but imaginative.” He notes that all of the fabrics, prints, and a series of original laces used in his collection were designed and made entirely in house this season.