Does Retail Need A Store Front?

Countering the customary formats of retail design, a number of pioneering London stores have moved away from the shop front, opting for unassuming locations and covert façades, developing experientially driven spaces. Notably, this model is relatively prevalent in many Asian cities, such as Tokyo, Seoul and Hong Kong, where retail spaces are often housed within large buildings without obvious signage directing passers-by to the space, or window displays. Though these stores might miss out on foot traffic, creating a feeling of exclusivity that does not necessarily correlate with cost, but rather, a sense of being in the know, can be an effective strategy in appealing to a niche market.

Considering the fast-fashion zeitgeist of today, an unmarked store operating on an appointments-only basis could seem like an unwise retail strategy, and yet the brainchild of Dan Mitchell and John Skelton, LN-CC, short for Late Night Chameleon Café, has established itself as somewhat of a fashion institution over the years. The remarkable interior, conceived by celebrated set designer and illustrator Gary Card, takes customers through a series of dramatic spaces that transform the shopping experience.

Typically, retail interiors have a comparatively short life, and economic realities influence choice of materials and methods of construction. In saying this, the format offers enormous creative freedom, making retail spaces some of the most exciting and innovative examples of spatial design. Set off the central corridor is LN-CC’s largest shopping space, three rooms displaying a range of apparel and accessories, along with an area where shoppers can browse a curated selection of books and records. A core group of designers, including J.W. Anderson, Rick Owens and Gucci, are constants in the boutique’s roster of brands, while garments from new, emerging talents such as Central Saint Martins graduate Yang Li ensure that stock remains current and exciting.

Inside east London’s lifestyle boutique Hostem, the innovation of James Brown and Christie Fels, garments hang from a handmade oak structure, inspired by the works of American artist Oscar Tuazon. The space was once the home and studio of artist Cornelia Parker, and has been transformed into an open-plan, minimalistic space, feeling almost like a gallery. Concrete, wood and stone slab floors are paired with white painted walls and vaulted glass ceilings. Furniture pieces include Swiss architect Pierre Jeanneret’s chairs, sofas and Chandigargh table, along with a picnic table inspired by Donald Judd’s monolithic Marfa piece. Artworks by American artists Graham Collins and Lucien Smith hang alongside pieces by Hungarian artist Kika Karadi throughout the store.

With an increasing focus on experiential design, wherein prospective customers are immersed into a brand’s vision, physically, as well as inevitably through a digital presence, innovative spatial design is a key concern of contemporary retailers. At the frontier of this movement, British designers, and Something Curated favourites, Gary Card, Joseph Bennett and Robert Storey, have been responsible for conceptualising some of the most lauded retail landscapes of recent times.

Harnessing the allure of obscurity, larger retailers are following suit, launching pop-up events and niche one-off stores. With Oxford Circus’s Nike Town catering to the mass market, the brand created a clubhouse-style space for their most loyal fans. Concealed under the railway arches on Bateman Row, a side street connecting Great Eastern Street to Curtain Road, NikeLab 1948 opened in 2014. A space made of recycled materials is the appropriately forward-thinking setting for the shop, which is one of six NikeLabs across the world, a temple for the sports brand’s latest and limited edition offerings.

Making a concerted effort to move away from archetypal images of conspicuous consumption, a growing number of retailers are applying an almost museological approach to visual merchandising. With this in mind, the concept of a storefront, which characteristically aims to attract foot traffic, seems to be less of a priority. These collector spaces offer a near complete lifestyle, bringing together interiors, art, music and fashion, as well as other lived experiences outside acquisition, such as seeing art, having your photo taken, and live performances, providing a cohesive insight into the company’s ethos.

 

Text by Keshav Anand