Five Fashion Buyers Shaping The Frontier Of Retail

Key influencers when it comes to the consumer’s experience of retail, buyers are the unseen persuaders of the industry, playing a critical role in the commercial success of a designer. As you sift through rails of beautiful garments, it is interesting to consider the process that brings clothes presented on the runway to the retail space. Buyers often work closely with designers and their designated sales representatives, attending trade fairs, wholesale showrooms and fashion shows to observe shifting styles. Shaping the way people shop and directing consumers to trends, buyers are some of fashion’s most influential characters. Something Curated takes a closer look at five innovative figures in London, gaining insight into their backgrounds, and what it takes to be a successful tastemaker today.

 

John Skelton || LN-CC, oki-ni, Harrods, Selfridges

With a discerning eye for new talent and an inimitable artistic vision, John Skelton has established himself as one of the industry’s most venerable buyers. Skelton was 16 when he started working on the shop floor of the Strand, a fashion boutique in Newcastle, placed amongst the best for designer menswear outside London. Skelton’s resourcefulness was rewarded when he became the store’s chief buyer. In 2001, at the age of 20, Selfridges’ then Head of Menswear David Walker-Smith, invited Skelton to join their buying team. Skelton became the youngest person to fill the position in the store’s history. Shortly after, he took on the position of Creative Director at the e-commerce site oki-ni, before co-founding LN-CC with Dan Mitchell. The duo’s concept store established itself as somewhat of a fashion institution over the years. Its remarkable interior, conceived by celebrated set designer and illustrator Gary Card, takes customers through a series of dramatic spaces that transform the shopping experience.

 

Natalie Kingham || Matches Fashion

As the Buying Director of the Tom and Ruth Chapman-founded e-commerce site Matches Fashion, Natalie Kingham is responsible for overseeing the platform’s international, contemporary, activewear, bags, shoes, and accessories offerings. As well as putting together an eclectic and commercially successful edit, Kingham has negotiated a number of exciting collaborations with designers including Mary Katrantzou, Vivienne Westwood and Preen. Notably, the site has upcoming capsule collections with Simone Rocha, Zandra Rhodes, Roksanda Ilincic, and Katie Eary, launching this autumn. Though Kingham’s work is largely focused on the virtual world of online shopping, the South London native’s approach to dressing is decidedly practical. With experience as a stylist, photographer’s assistant, and designer, Kingham possesses a unique and diverse skillset which has equipped her to stay up-to-date with the ever-changing trends and understand what women will want to wear next.

 

Zika Liu || Vertice

Buyer Zika Liu oversees the edit at South Molton Street’s menswear boutique, Vertice. Building upon the store’s longstanding penchant for artisanal garments from unorthodox makers, Liu, who studied at London College of Fashion, champions a small group of niche luxury designers, including Deepti Barth, Boris Bidjan Saberi, Guidi, A1923, Label Under Construction, and Ma+. With a focus on uncompromising quality and a decided sense of obscurity, Vertice, founded in 1993, continues to uphold its original ethos. Liu tells Something Curated: “It was the perfect place to start; operating in a small team means I get to see the whole picture and working closely with the owner was a priceless learning experience. I had my first buying trip only three months after joining the company in 2011, and haven’t missed a season since. Unlike the traditional luxury boutiques, Vertice is known for avant-garde and artisan fashion, garments made with extreme attention to detail, supreme fabric combination and innovative pattern cutting.”

 

Laura Larbalestier || Browns, Selfridges

Buying Director, Laura Larbalestier, spent eight years at Selfridges before making the move in 2012 to the renowned London multi-brand boutique, Browns. Originally from the United States, Larbalestier relocated to London to study fashion management at the London College of Fashion, graduating in 2003. After working as a Buying Administrator in the children’s department at Selfridges, she transitioned to Buying Assistant in the womenswear design team, where she was promoted to the position of Buyer within a year. In 2011 Larbalestier joined Browns Fashion as the boutique’s Buying Director. She notes: “A lot of it is instinct, which is fine tuned over time. Similarly, I’ve also developed an understanding of what works in the market … Finding new things is what’s often challenging in our role, but it’s also one of the most thrilling parts of my job.” Notably, the Dries Van Noten enthusiast also sits on the BFC NEWGEN selection panel.

 

Stavros Karelis || Machine-A

Stavros Karelis, Founder and Buying Director of Soho-based concept store Machine-A, is well-known for championing the work of young designers, stocking them alongside directional brands. His career began in his native Greece, where at 18 he spent a year working as a fashion editor. He relocated to London to study Politics & International Law at Goldsmiths, and while still a student founded Digitaria, a project which organised events and showcased the work of young designers and artists. In 2009, Karelis launched Machine-A, advised by stylist Anna Trevelyan, his business partner and the store’s Fashion Director. Notably, he provides valuable guidance to the young designers he platforms on production and pricing, and the store was one of the first to pick up London designers, Craig Green, Liam Hodges and Nasir Mazhar. Karelis is also a judge for NEWGEN, the British Fashion Council’s emerging talent initiative.