Clerkenwell’s Exmouth Market was for a long time an unloved locality, a slightly gloomy strip home to a few mediocre restaurants, following the decline of its once flourishing foodie reputation established in the late 18th century. Just moments away from the busily populated Upper Street, it was an unassuming address until Moro boldly arrived in 1997. The area, drawing its name from the Exmouth Arms Pub that is centrally situated on the street, has been a marketplace since the 1890s and a number of the street’s buildings date back to the period. Nearby, meat has been traded at Smithfield Market for more than 800 years, making it one of the oldest markets in London; notably, a livestock market occupied the site as early as the 10th century.

Certainly, references to this rich history can be seen in the abundance of meat focussed eateries and butchers, including Macellaio RC Exmouth Market and The Quality Chop House, inhabiting the vicinity today. Since the mid-nineties, Clerkenwell’s marketplaces have undergone considerable change, and the area is now home to a large number of restaurants, cafes and bars, as well as numerous independent shops. Something Curated compiles a list of Clerkenwell’s best culinary offerings, taking a closer look at their founders and proprietors.

 

New & Notable 

Luca || Daniel Willis, Isaac McHale & Johnny Smith

The smart signage on the facade at 88 St John Street is the first indication of what to expect from Luca, the latest venture from the trio behind the multi award-winning, Michelin starred Clove Club. Co-founder Smith notes: “We’re using the term “Britalian” as shorthand to describe the type of cuisine we will serve, which is focused on using prime British ingredients and imagining them through an Italian lens. The food at Luca will observe and respect the deep traditions of the country’s cooking, but will break the rules a bit – think woodpigeon-sausage ragu, for example, or pheasant Milanese.”

 

Palatino || Stevie Parle 

Restaurateur Stevie Parle continues to expand his London portfolio, following the success of Craft London and Sardine among others, with Palatino, an all-day restaurant influenced by traditional Roman recipes. The open kitchen boasts a pasta machine, wood-fired grill and stone oven, all of which informs the menu: freshly made bucatini pasta or squash and spinach ravioli, for example, might be followed by grilled bream with onions and pine nuts or native lobster with chilli and fennel. Notably, Parle is already well versed in Italian cooking, with Rotorino on Kingsland Road, and his fusion offering, Dock Kitchen in Ladbroke Grove, also turning out some delicious Italian dishes.

 

Anglo || Mark Jarvis & Jack Cashmore

Situated just off of Leather Lane in Farringdon, Anglo is a recently launched modern British dining room. With an emphasis on simple, refined dishes Mark Jarvis and Jack Cashmore offer an evening tasting menu, while at lunch there are a la carte options, as well as a five course set menu. Co-run by the two young rising stars, Jarvis and Cashmore, whose eclectic collective CV ranges from The Bingham, Le Manoir and Zuma to In De Wulf in Belgium, the flavours of each course flow pleasantly into the next. The minimalist interiors, with low lamps and concrete floors offer diners a stylish setting in which to enjoy their meal.

 

Sosharu & Kisetsu || Jason Atherton, Irha Atherton & Alex Craciun

Sosharu is an izakaya-style restaurant and bar in Clerkenwell, launched in spring 2016 by prominent restaurateurs Jason and Irha Atherton. Created in collaboration with executive head chef Alex Craciun, Sosharu serves up Japanese cuisine using British seasonal ingredients. The basement is home to a stylish bar called 7 Tales, offering a range of Japanese-inspired cocktails and spirits. The venue was designed by Neri & Hu, the Shanghai-based architecture and design consultancy.

Kisetsu is a 10-seater restaurant-within-a-restaurant, operating as a separate dining space, located in the basement of Sosharu. The name means ‘season’ and appropriately, the menu changes on a daily basis. Focusing on Japanese small plates prepared in front of you, dishes might include duck sukiyaki, as well as golden raspberries with yuzu curd and shiso for dessert. Kisetsu positions Alex Craciun at the centre of the experience, with diners sitting at a communal wooden counter watching the talented chef at work.

 

Macellaio RC Exmouth Market || Roberto Costa 

A meat lover’s haven, this relaxed Italian eatery exhibits a butcher’s block in the dining room and slabs of beef and whole tunas suspended in its windows. Roberto Costa sold a restaurant chain in his native Italy before opening Macellaio RC South Kensington in 2012, specialising in Fassone beef from Piedmont. Exmouth Market adds Sicilian tuna to the mix, and the surf and turf approach informs the entire menu. Strewn with Tuscan olive oil and rock salt, the meat boasts a silky texture and strong flavour. Equally satisfying is the latte dolce fritto to finish, and the extensive Italian wine list.

 

Something British 

155 Bar & Kitchen at Clerkenwell London || Damian Wawrzyniak & David J Brown

Clerkenwell London is a leading destination for the discovery of niche and established designers, creatives and artisans, founded by David J Brown. An all-day space for dining and drinking, 155 Bar & Kitchen takes patrons from the first coffee of the day to the last cocktail of the night. A modern British menu is paired with a surrounding that brings together soothing neutral tones with details inspired by London’s own landscape. Taking the helm in the kitchen is a team of innovative and emerging chefs supported by award-winning chef consultant Damian Wawrzyniak, who brings a wealth of knowledge from experience at world recognised restaurant Noma.

 

The Quality Chop House || Will Lander & Josie Stead

The Quality Chop House is a restaurant, butcher and shop located on Farringdon Road just around the corner from Exmouth Market. The restaurant was opened in 1869 and has been ‘The Quality Chop House’ ever since. Will Lander and Josie Stead took it over in 2012, restoring it to its former glory, serving predominantly British, locally-sourced and sustained food. Lander is the son of wine connoisseur Jancis Robinson and food writer Nicholas Lander, while business partner Josie Stead, is ex-Heston’s Dinner. The eatery’s Grade-II listed dining room is still configured to its original design from 1869, featuring the historic bench booths for parties of 3-6.

 

Bourne & Hollingsworth Buildings || Mark Holdstock

The design of this all-day brasserie and bar is the result of a collaboration between Mark Holdstock’s in-house creative team, and architects Box 9 and Red Deer. Drawing inspiration from the faded grandeur of a stately home, this unique venue is a serene retreat. Situated just off Exmouth Market, Bourne & Hollingsworth Buildings features a restaurant and greenhouse, a relaxed café area, characterful private rooms and a large bar, serving the brand’s famous cocktails. The interior features pared back, classic interiors with a light, clean feel combined with an abundance of fresh greenery.

 

Clerkenwell Instituions 

St John || Fergus Henderson

Fergus Henderson, the English chef and founder of the hugely successful St John restaurants in London, interestingly had no formal training in cooking, and has never worked under another chef. The menu changes daily, but almost always includes the now iconic bone marrow and parsley salad. Henderson’s repertoire is far broader and continually developing, but this particular dish has remained closely associated with the chef. The first St John based in Clerkenwell was awarded a Michelin star back in 2009. Often noted for his use of offal and other neglected cuts of meat, Henderson has published a series of bestselling books building upon his well known waste-not philosophy.

 

Le Café du Marché || Charlie Graham-Wood

Le Café du Marché, founded by Charlie Graham-Wood in 1986, has remained unchanged for so long that it seems to have once again come back into fashion. Featuring exposed brick walls with little by way of decoration, other than glass bottles of preserved fruit, an antique clock, and wooden warehouse beams, the candlelit romance of the place is intensified by its cobbled mews location. It’s hard not to get swept along by the ambience of the space. The classic menu includes escargot on sourdough with lardo or venison carpaccio with blackberries, ahead of veal chop with gnocchi or sea bass with crab and pastis-infused tomato sauce.

 

Hix Oyster & Chop House || Mark Hix

Mark Hix’s first solo restaurant, HIX Oyster & Chop House, was opened in 2008, a stone’s throw from Smithfield, London’s historic meat market. The wooden floors, marble oyster bar, tiled walls, linen tablecloths and distinctive artworks go towards creating an elegant yet unfussy dining room. The menu reflects the famous chef’s signature British style with seasonal and daily changing dishes featuring oysters from around the British Isles, and a selection of meats and steaks on the bone.

 

Moro || Sam & Sam Clark

It was an unusual route which led to the establishment of Moro in the spring of 1997. Sam and Sam Clark shared a love of the Southern Mediterranean and ended up marrying and taking a camper van through Spain, Morocco and the Sahara. Moro’s menu certainly reflected the influences of their travels from the very beginning. Cookbooks followed, chefs and critics offered much praise, and Moro quickly established itself as a neighbourhood restaurant that maintains a consistently high standard. Expect North African and Spanish dishes and all-day tapas in an elegant low-lit space.

 

Club Gascon || Pascal Aussignac

As the flagship of Pascal Aussignac’s London portfolio, Club Gascon joyfully celebrates Southern French cuisine. The marble-walled dining room, with its velvet curtains and lofty ceilings, provide the setting for unusual foie gras treatments, as well as more recognisable traditional French classics. The reasonably priced set lunches are an attractive proposition, but the six-course Marché menu with rare regional wine pairings is equally worth a try. Opened in 2001, Comptoir Gascon is the sister restaurant of the nearby Club Gascon, and was originally set-up as a bakery and deli, but relaunched in 2005 as a cosy neighbourhood bistro.

 

Sushi Tetsu || Harumi & Toru Takahashi

Sushi Tetsu is located in an unassuming backstreet in Clerkenwell shared by The Zetter Townhouse and The Modern Pantry. The eatery is a traditional Japanese Sushi Bar owned and run by husband and wife duo, Harumi and Toru Takahashi. Specialising in sushi and sashimi, Chef Toru brings a relaxed sushi experience to the shadowy alleyways of Clerkenwell. Nicknamed ‘Tetsu’ when working as an apprentice in Kobe, his belief is to source the finest ingredients to create mouth-watering dishes, whilst making a connection with each of his diners. The intimacy of sitting in front of the chef creates an inimitable ambience.

 

The Modern Pantry || Anna Hansen

Anna Hansen’s menu traverses the globe, with influences from the Middle East, Turkey, Europe and Japan, amongst others. The Modern Pantry is housed in two elegant Georgian buildings in St John’s Square. The larger of the two buildings was originally part of an adjacent steel foundry, while the other was a townhouse. The first floor dining rooms are comprised of two elegant, light filled rooms overlooking the Square. Classic Heritage features are complimented with contemporary design creating an intimate and relaxing atmosphere. The ground floor café is a modern casual dining space serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner throughout the week, with out door seating in the summer.

 

Something Quick 

Berber & Q Shawarma Bar || Josh Katz

The Berber & Q group, founded by former Ottolenghi chef Josh Katz, recently launched its second site, Shawarma Bar, in London’s Exmouth Market. With its artfully chaotic wooden shelves, stylish Scandinavian inspired lighting and Exmouth Market setting, Berber and Q Shawarma Bar isn’t the average kebab shop. Its first location, the Berber & Q Grill House, opened in 2015 in Haggerston. Specialisng in rotisserie Middle Eastern meats slow-cooked over charcoal and wood, the eatery takes influence and inspiration from the streets and cafe culture of Tel Aviv.