How FRUiTS Magazine Embedded Harajuku Fashion Into The World’s Consciousness
By Something CuratedPhotographer Shoichi Aoki founded FRUiTS in 1997 to document the joyous and eclectic street fashions of Tokyo. FRUiTS positioned itself as a niche subculture magazine, but thanks to Aoki’s prior publishing experience – he had previously founded the London-based STREET Magazine in 1985 – FRUiTS got international distribution through Tower Records and other independent booksellers. It quickly became a point of reference for designers, artists, musicians, and other creatives alike, across the globe. In an era before social media and blogs, FRUiTS Magazine gave the world an extraordinary, and previously largely unseen, insight into Harajuku.
The magazine celebrated the optimism and originality of the young people photographed, and its mantra of authenticity and experimentation was boldly broadcast in its pages, alongside the recording of broader social trends. For Aoki, it was about challenging the mainstream fashion magazines of the time, which focused, like today, on presenting pre-packaged styles, giving the freedom of expression back to the individual. FRUiTS quickly caught the attention of the prominent publishing house Phaidon, whose release of several high quality photo books, along with exhibitions at galleries around the world, bolstered the international awareness of both FRUiTS and Harajuku itself.
FRUiTS monthly print edition established itself as a touchstone of innovative style, celebrating the diverse creativity of everything from the hyper feminine Dolly Kei and Lolita to Gyaru, Decora and Ura-Hara. Each clan possessed its own specific and original dress codes, ideas and practices. The magazine decidedly published few ads, and those that did get printed only advertised Harajuku’s shops. Aoki’s photographs filled entire pages and a small white bar in the bottom described the outfit, where it was purchased, it’s inspiration, and a short description of the person in the photo, including their age and interests.
After 20 years and 233 issues, Aoki announced in February 2017 that FRUiTS magazine would cease publication because, as he put, “there are no more cool kids to photograph.” The district’s unique creative energy was largely facilitated by the Hokousha Tengoku, shortened to Hokoten, translating to “pedestrian paradise” in English. The term describes a district of streets that are closed to traffic so that pedestrians can mingle freely. Once the unpopular decision was made to allow traffic into Harajuku, it rapidly deterred the young groups that had made the vibrant district their haunt. It was this change that ultimately marked the beginning of the end for FRUiTS.
Though the magazine remains shuttered, enjoy over twenty years of Harajuku street fashion, curated by Tokyo-based editor Chris Tordoff, at @fruits_magazine_archives. Tordoff initially became captivated by the fashion of 90s Japan after watching a British documentary on the subject. Following his relocation to Tokyo, he met with Aoki and persuaded the FRUiTS founder to let him create an online archive account for the magazine. Most recently, it looks like Aoki is embracing the latest cohort of Harajuku youths, sharing images of individuals on his personal account, despite prior comments remarking on the neighbourhood’s lack of style. Perhaps then there’s still potential for the revival of this influential publication one day.
Feature image: FRUiTS Magazine (via Pinterest)