These Designers Are Using Fashion To Explore Their South Asian Heritage

Boasting a rich cultural history, laden with tradition and innovation, South Asian aesthetics and design have left an indelible mark on the world of fashion. In recent years, a growing number of diasporic designers have gained attention from the industry, using fashion as a way to explore and celebrate their heritage by blending and reimagining traditional elements with contemporary Western sartorial codes to create unique and inventive designs. Something Curated delves into the work of five talented designers who are using fashion not only as a means of self-expression but also as a tool to explore diverse narratives of South Asia and the diaspora. From the recontextualising of traditional silhouettes to the subversion of familiar embroidery and prints, these designers are telling new stories, while celebrating their origins.

Priya Ahluwalia     

Priya Ahluwalia launched her namesake brand, Ahluwalia, in 2018 after graduating with an MA in Menswear from the University of Westminster. Gaining industry-wide recognition following her debut SS19 collection and book, Sweet Lassi, Ahluwalia has since become one of the most anticipated collections at London Fashion Week, going onto show as part of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN initiative. In 2020, Ahluwalia jointly won the LVMH Prize. Through her eponymous label, the designer celebrates elements from her dual Indian-Nigerian heritage and London upbringing, exploring themes of identity, race, and sustainability, while incorporating textile waste and vintage materials into her designs. 

Zain Ali

British-Pakistani artist Zain Ali, behind label ZN ALI, relocated from Pakistan to the UK at the age of five. While holding a degree in Religion, Philosophy and Ethics, as well as a postgraduate degree in Law, Zain has diversified his talents into various creative fields. Along with being a photographer and art director, he created ZN ALI, which is heavily influenced by his family’s clothing evolution and his personal history. The designer’s vision for the label is for it to be a means of building narratives that are constantly shaped by the community it serves. In addition to his creative pursuits, Ali works as a programme manager at the Young Foundation Communities, a consultancy firm that helps underprivileged areas in London access grant funding.

Supriya Lele

Supriya Lele is a British-Indian fashion designer based in London. She launched her eponymous brand in 2017 and has since gained critical acclaim for her unique, contemporary designs that blend elements of her Indian heritage with Western aesthetics and style. Lele was born and raised in the UK to Indian immigrant parents, and her designs often explore themes of cultural identity and belonging. Her collections feature bold, draped silhouettes, and unexpected fabric combinations, creating a distinct aesthetic. Lele’s work has been showcased at London Fashion Week and she has been recognised with awards such as the LVMH Prize and The BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund.

Amesh Wijesekera

London-born designer and artist Amesh Wijesekera is a graduate of the Academy of Design Sri Lanka. Wijesekera gained experience in the studios of Future Laboratory London, Edeline Lee and Zandra Rhodes before establishing his own label. His affinity for handmade textiles and vivid colour is palpable in the output of his label Amesh. The designer works alongside skilled craftsman and women based throughout Sri Lanka, including artisan communities of knitwear, crochet, and handloom specialists. In 2019, Wijesekera was included in the International Fashion Showcase in London, initiated by London Fashion Week, and more recently was a 2022 LVMH Prize semifinalist.

Ashish Gupta

Ashish Gupta is best known for his vibrant, sequin-heavy collections. He was born and raised in Delhi, India, and later moved to London to study fashion design at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. After graduating in 2000, Gupta launched his eponymous label, Ashish, which quickly gained attention for its playful, irreverent designs. His work often incorporates sportswear silhouettes and graphics alongside dramatic embellishments. Gupta has shown his collections at London Fashion Week since 2005 and has been recognised with accolades such as the British Fashion Council’s New Generation Award. He is also a visiting lecturer at Central Saint Martins and has collaborated with the Victoria and Albert Museum on special projects.



Feature image via @ahluwalia