Where to Eat and Drink in Lagos in 2024
By MoyosoreOluwa Odunfa-AkinboThe Lagos dining scene in 2024 is dynamic: From the mainland to the island, there are myriad restaurants, cafes, bukas and cloud kitchens. Lagos means ‘lakes’, it was so named by the Portuguese due to the abundance of water bodies that connect the city.
Lagos is Nigeria’s most populous state and as the commercial capital, it is a nexus of cultures and cuisines. Despite it being in the South-Western region of the country, which would typically mean the indigenous people hail from the Yoruba ethnic group, many tribes, nationalities, cultures and religious groups live and thrive together. Lagos has so much to offer.
There is a lot of local influence in the food scene, and there is a lot of international flair also, fusing the flavors of the Americas, the Middle East, Asia and other parts of Africa with local ingredients and produce.
Here’s a curated guide on where to experience the best of the city in 2024.
Suya
Originally located on Admiralty Way in Lekki Phase One, Norma recently expanded out to locations all over the city. A 24/7 spot, churning out delicious suya and its accompaniments – the more traditional sides like masa (fermented rice cakes) and creative takes, like suya burgers and shawarma.
Suya comes from Northern Nigeria. Similar to kebabs and koftas, suya is made by grilling thinly sliced meat on skewers, marinated in yaji spice (a local spice mix that contains spices and seasonings, including kuli-kuli (peanut powder), chillies, ginger, and much more). It is typically made with the different parts of a cow, and when it is made with ram it is called balangu.
Norma also offers chicken and guinea fowl and seafood options, all coated in yaji and cooked over an open flame.
Their spots are small, so it’s really a place to grab your meal and be on your way: perfect for a night out. According to the owners, they are Lagos’ best suya experience. It’s difficult to disagree when the food is this fresh, tasty, beautifully packaged and ready in just a matter of minutes.
Cafes
Milk and Honey
Milk and Honey is a cafe by one of the best pastry chefs in Lagos, Olivia Okeke of Livy’s Twist. Opened in 2023 and located in the Lekki neighbourhood of the city, Milk and Honey serves irresistible treats from a quaint store. Its chalkboard menu boasts a variety of warm and cold beverages, from coffees to smoothies and homemade lemonades using local seasonal fruits.
Unlike a lot of spots in Lagos, drinks are true to their name. The agbalumo lemonade is tart and sweet, just like the fruit. The same can be said about the coffees and milkshakes – well balanced, not overly sweet, and made with good quality ingredients.
Sandwiches, cakes, brownies and pies are also available. But my favourite has to be the sablé breton – rich and buttery, thick and crunchy. The service is good and they have a lovely outdoor seating area with free wifi.
Dining Experiences
There is a new wave of creative chefs transforming the Nigerian culinary scene and nowhere is this happening more than in Lagos. Young chefs are offering dining experiences that speak to their culinary philosophy – these dinners are open to all and bring people together on one table to enjoy their cuisine, with a format that is similar to supper clubs.
Chef Beezuz KBBQ
Seyilogo Braithwaite aka chef Beezus has served up Korean barbecue dining experiences since 2022 from Beezus Kitchen – originally a cloud kitchen, but now Beezuz hosts a variety of private and communal dining experiences, which now reflect the chef’s interest in cuisines across East Asia, each month.
The interactive dinners offers a wide range of welcome cocktails, sometimes inspired by local drinks like zobo (hibiscus), and a selection of chicken, beef and pork dishes which guests get to grill themselves in the middle of the table, alongside unlimited banchan (sides), soju, beer and wine. It’s a great evening of meeting new people and exploring delicious, freshly grilled and well seasoned meats.
Chef Rahila’s Rahila & Co, and now Canvas Concept Space
Canvas concept space has a cocktail room which is open Wednesday to Sunday, and offers a wide range of creative drinks, grouped according to their flavour profiles which helps you make a choice, depending on your preferences. Here, it’s a small menu, heavily influenced by local flavours.
Rahila & Co started as a pop-up dining series. Each experience tells of Nigerian cuisine and culture through multi-course seasonal menus accompanied by a wine pairing and storytelling from the chef. The Rahila & Co dining experience has now morphed into the Canvas private dining room, which is perfect for small events from 2 to 20 guests.
For a creative take on Nigerian cuisine, Canvas offers both a more relaxed setting in its cocktail room and a more formal sit-down experience in the private dining room. I cannot forget chef Rahila’s dambu nama (meat floss) and her delightful fisherman’s soup. The agbalumo cocktail also left a lasting impression.
Restaurants
La Taverna
Run by the amazing chef Duhalde, La Taverna brings the flavours of South America – and specifically, Chile – to Lagos. With a great offering of wines and a bakery churning out artisanal breads and desserts, La Taverna is truly a gem that has stood the test of time, open for 10 years in the city. Simple, bold flavours and lovely ambiance. Definitely try the Taverna pizza and chicken arrabiata pasta.
Thai Thai
This family run, green space is my favourite place to enjoy Thai cuisine in Lagos. From the soups and sides to the main dishes, everything is bursting with nutty, savoury flavour. You can choose your preferred level of spice, from mild, all the way up.
Nestled in an apartment complex, it is a diamond in the rough; the simple, artistic ambiance is both welcoming and calming. I would recommend the tom yum, pad Thai, massaman curry and basil fried rice. For drinks, the tamarind margarita and OG GOGI are lovely, either as cocktails or mocktails.
El Padrino
Run by Uzo the ‘taco lady’, El Padrino is a beautiful marriage of Nigerian and Mexican cuisine. Inspired by her exposure to the Mexican community in California during her formative years, Uzo’s goal was to share the delicious cuisine she experienced with Nigerians in a way they could appreciate.
Padrino’s tacos can be stuffed with either chicken, beef, vegetable, or, my favourite, goat. Drink offerings include the homemade agua de Jamaica, which is reminiscent of local zobo and limeade – refreshingly tart and sweet.
ONA
Ona means jewel. Run by the creative and dynamic chef Obehi, Ona showcases the beauty of Nigerian cuisine on a whole other level. From the moment you walk in, you are surrounded by Nigerian art, crockery and design.
Each dish is unique, with an exceptional depth of flavour. Each drink is special, using local fruits and homemade ferments, while the service is intuitive and personal. The agbalumo monkeytail is one to try. Its bao buns are fluffy and delicious, the smoked stir-fry rice is a symphony of flavour and the sticky pudding is the perfect ending. Ona also has a rooftop bar called the Ona Cloud, where you can have small plates and drinks in a more relaxed and fun atmosphere.
MoyosoreOluwa Odunfa-Akinbo is a chef and writer based in Lagos Nigeria. She curates Nigerian fine dining experiences with her team at the Àtijẹ Experience. Header photograph by iam hogir on Pexels.