Taiwanese Artist Cole Lu’s Guide to Taipei
By Cole LuBy fusing historical and literary references with lived experiences, Taipei-born New York-based artist Cole Lu’s work tells stories of dissonance and longing through winding odysseys—rendered in burnt wood, linen, engraved metal, and concrete. Following a conversation between the artist and Something Curated’s Keshav Anand, discussing Lu’s practice and latest show, The Engineers, Lu shares with SC a personal—and very useful—guide to his native city of Taipei. The artist reveals his favourite museums, contemporary art spaces, book and record shops, walking trails, street foods, and more, below.
Hengshan Calligraphy Art Center 橫山書法藝術館 (Taoyuan)
The Hengshan Calligraphy Art Center is a hidden gem in Taoyuan City; it’s a 40-minute drive from Taipei and has become my favorite museum in recent years. It’s the first museum dedicated to ink art, a distinct vision that sets it apart. The museum is situated on the bank of a large pond, with five buildings surrounding it, each resembling a mountain-shaped inkstone. The pond, in turn, represents the ink. I was fortunate to experience their inaugural biennale in 2023, an exhibition that fiercely challenges the traditional categorization of ink art and redefines its boundaries in contemporary fine art.
Jut Art Museum 忠泰美術館
The Jut Art Museum stands out for its focus on the relationship between art, architecture, and their influence on urban development and community. I value the critical examination of different principles of urban architecture, which integrates art, theory, history, and practical applications. This often involves reflecting on and re-evaluating the impact of these elements on the political and economic context of society.
New Taipei City Art Museum 新北市美術館
The New Taipei City Art Museum is currently under construction for its main building and has yet to be fully opened. I visited the museum this summer for its inaugural exhibit, “In Terms of Sport.” The exhibition was spread across various buildings and outdoor spaces. I was fascinated by the curatorial approach in each presentation, which consistently invited us to reflect on our bodies and their social significance concerning the concept of sports and the politics of movements.
TheCube Project Space 立方計劃空間
TheCube Project Space is one of Taipei’s leading independent non-profit art spaces, recognized for its diverse programming. It nurtures innovative thinking, philosophy, and creative expression among the new generation within Taiwan’s cultural landscape. The space has hosted various exhibitions, music festivals, readings, and workshops.
Each Modern Gallery 亞紀畫廊
I admire the gallery’s curatorial vision and its thoughtful approach to introducing cross-generational artists to the contemporary art scene in East and Southeast Asia. The gallery represents some of my favorite artists, including Ting-Shih Chen (陳庭詩) and Daido Moriyama (森山大道). This past summer, I had an incredible opportunity to work with the gallery on a two-person exhibition and a talk with Djordje Ozbolt, and it turned out to be one of the most fruitful conversations and working experiences I have ever had.
Pon Ding 朋丁
Pon Ding is an independent bookstore with an esoteric collection of art, photography, cultural theory, independent publications, and zines. It is also an exhibition space with an in-house coffee shop.
White Wabbit Records 小白兔唱片
I spent much of my teenage years at White Wabbit Records, initially as a music fan and later as a staff member during my young adult life in Taipei. Working in an independent label and a record store allowed me to think outside the conventional economic power structure for the first time. The label also hosted various concerts and music festivals; I encountered incredible musicians and thinkers, and these dialogues shaped some of my early principles in thinking, listening, composing, and writing. Since its founding in 1997, it has been a vital part of independent music history in Taiwan, participating in the growth and evolution of independent music and its influences on Taiwanese music culture.
SPOT Taipei Film House 光點台北電影館
SPOT Taipei Film House, a cultural hub, was established by the director Hou Hsiao-Hsien (侯孝賢). It was formerly the residency of the U.S. Ambassador, a historical landmark repurposed into a film house after its restoration in 2002. Thanks to their stringent, thought-provoking curation, I have enjoyed watching numerous impactful films during my formative years. The Film House is more than just a cinema; it is also a space for gathering and dialogue. In addition to its SPOT cinema, it houses a bookstore, coffee shop, exhibition gallery, a multi-media conference room, and a winery lounge.
Ning Xia Night Market 寧夏夜市
Ning Xia Night Market is my favorite night market in Taipei, located in Dadaocheng, Taipei’s oldest district. I will have dinner here every night if I can; below are just a few selections from my favorites: Liu Yu Zi Taro Egg Balls (劉芋仔蛋黃芋餅); Yammy Peanut Roll Ice Cream (雅米花生捲冰淇淋)—this classic Taiwanese ice cream wrap consists of a few scoops of traditional Taiwanese ice cream, usually taro and pineapple flavor, fresh cilantro, and peanut brittle shavings served in a thin crepe; Burst and Crispy Squid (爆漿脆皮魷魚)—a whole squid stuffed with cucumber with lemon wasabi (檸檬芥末) flavor dressing; Yuen Huan Pien Oyster Egg Omelette (圓環邊蚵仔煎); Daqiaotou Xiangji Pure Sugar Mochi (大橋頭祥記純糖麻糬)—roasted mochi coated in peanut powder and black sesame (烤麻糬), it can be served on its own or on shaved ice (麻糬冰).
Beitou Hot Springs 北投溫泉
It’s a hot springs area with a hub of various attractions. The Beitou Hot Springs Museum, Public Library, Beitou Public Bath House, Rehai Rock Climbing area, and Thermal Valley are all part of this unique area. The hot springs themselves are a must-visit; my personal favorites are LONGNICE Hot Spring (瀧乃湯/ たきのゆ) and Beitou Hot Springs Resort (南豐天玥泉).
National Palace Museum 故宮博物院
The National Palace Museum in Taipei is a familiar comfort place; my father has visited the collection regularly since my earliest memories. My brother and I often accompany him; it is one of our weekend activities outside the cinema. The museum houses nearly 700,000 artifacts, one of the largest Chinese imperial collections. I visited a special exhibition of Taoist text this summer, titled “Tao Follows Its Own Nature,” which was an unexpected and incredibly delightful experience; the exhibition viewed Taoism from both philosophy and religious perspectives and further examined the overlapping of spiritual immortality, magical thinking, rituals; and doctrines.
Zhinan Temple Mountain Trail 指南宮竹柏參道
The Thousand-Step Trail, also known as the Zhinan Temple Bamboo and Cypress Trail, offers quite a meditative experience as one ascends its stone path. Built during Japanese rule, the trail features a design in the traditional Japanese architectural style, with stone lanterns flanking both sides. It is surrounded by a 100-year-old bamboo cypress, cherry trees, and Nanmu trees.
Feature image: Courtesy of Cole Lu, Nova Contemporary, and Bangkok Kunsthalle. Photo by Krittawat Atthsis