Are you ready for some 1800s German poetry? Above Forchheim at KirchehrenbachLet’s go up on the hilltopThere on St. Walburga’s DayThe Franconian May-market dance is in full swingSince dim days of heathendomIt has been dear to all people of the landDarling, hold your belt and your dress tightWe’re jumping through the fire! Exodus Cantorum –…
The weight of tradition can be quite overwhelming for some restaurants. Trapped between evolving, capricious consumer tastes and preserving history, celebrated restaurants emblematic of a city or style can rapidly go out of fashion entirely, or travel in the other direction and in catering for change, alienate their regulars by changing too much. There’s a…
I arrived in the town of Windischeschenbach, deep into windswept, snow-covered Bavarian countryside, to be greeted by a boarded-up train station, a steep hill, and an ice-covered pavement. I know I’m meant to be staying in someone’s house, and that house is also, for this weekend only, a pub. This might be one of my…
Bamberg in Bavaria, Germany, can claim to be one of the world’s beer capitals. If you like a German lager (and especially if you’re one of the people who enjoys the polarising smoky taste of rauchbier, a local specialty), then Bamberg’s world-class lagers are worth a pilgrimage. While you’re there, you’ll be drinking in the…