Interview: Brazilian Chef Alberto Landgraf Behind Two-Michelin-Starred Oteque Arrives In London
By Something CuratedAlberto Landgraf, the celebrated chef behind two-Michelin-starred restaurant Oteque in Rio de Janeiro, has recently launched his first London concept, Bossa. Situated between Mayfair and Marylebone, Bossa seeks to embody the spirit of Brazil in the British capital. Growing up as the son of a farmer, Landgraf developed a deep appreciation for nature and seasonality. He credits his mother, who was Japanese, for instilling in him discipline, and a poetic approach that permeates his endeavours. Bringing his expertise and a dedicated team from Brazil to London, Landgraf aims to showcase the vibrant and contemporary cuisine of his home at Bossa. With seating for 60 guests, the restaurant is the culmination of over 20 years of experience and the unwavering commitment of the chef and his team to the art of cooking. To learn more about Landgraf’s journey into the food industry, where he likes to eat in Rio, and his latest project, Something Curated spoke with the accomplished chef.
Something Curated: Can you give us some insight into your background and journey to working in food?
Alberto Landgraf: I was always afraid of having a boring life or having to do the same thing every day so when I saw a proper kitchen for the first time, I realised that is what I wanted to do. A kitchen is a place where you can work and where you use the five senses, there is always something new to do every day, and there are infinite possibilities. Also, you can put your creativity to the test, and this takes you to the edge. From a background point of view, the cultural aspect of it, the heritage, the origins of the food, the agriculture, and all the people who work in the discipline and how history influences them… it is a discipline which talks about the past and present and how our lives are going to be shaped in the future.
SC: Tell us about Bossa — how was the concept for the restaurant born?
AL: I think the concept comes from something straightforward: me doing my cooking in London with some ingredients brought over from Brazil plus using the best British produce we can. The level of ingredients you can source in the UK from a gastronomic point of view, yes, it is expensive, but it is just amazing. For example, seafood, lamb and vegetables – before you would have had to buy these from French suppliers but now you can get everything in the UK. Such a high level – second to none. Anything you want, you can get really good produce in the UK. With our Brazilian background, some ingredients we can import, using them in combination with the best seasonal produce of the UK.
SC: What interested you in opening a restaurant in London?
AL: Definitely, the city itself and the history I have with it. London for me is the best capital to eat in apart from Tokyo, and I have a friend who told me one day, London is the best New York in the world. I totally agree with that, my chefs [who incidentally trained Landgraf, Tom Aiken and Gordan Ramsay] are in London, and this is where I first cut my finger; it is a really special place for me and I’m really happy to come back. What it has become as a cultural and gastronomic hub – it is also where I went to college and began my career.
SC: How did you approach creating the menu for the project, and are there any particular dishes you can tell us about?
AL: With me, everything is pretty straightforward; the only thing I really look for is quality. If you have quality ingredients, that’s pretty much what goes into the plate. I also have a block theory, which I create and move around and make the ingredients change a bit for example, to create more acidity or to make a texture firmer. From a starter to a sauce in a dessert, there is versatility in the ingredients. While thinking about dishes from Brazil, I tried to see what I could create using the best products I could get my hands on in the UK. Dishes that really represent this are the Scallops with Tucupi Sauce and the Roasted Bone Marrow with Tapioca and Cashew Nut, and obviously the Seafood Moqueca, which has become one of my favourites.
SC: Aside from Oteque, what are some of your favourite places to eat in Rio de Janeiro?
AL: Boteco is one of my favourites, a chain of bars a bit like pubs. I really like the Italian restaurant Grado. I always go to Copacabana Palace, a great hotel and an icon of the city. And Lasai Restaurante’s tasting menu from chef Rafa Costa E Silva.
Feature image by Justin De Souza / Courtesy Bossa