Filipino Artist Nicole Coson’s Guide to Manila

Stepping inside the gallery, viewers are met by columns of suspended oyster shells, each meticulously rendered in aluminium and connected by chain links. Installed as a cube from ceiling to floor within the space, the immersive work invites us to move through it. Undercurrents is the second solo exhibition at Ben Hunter by London-based Filipino artist Nicole Coson. Comprising a series of paintings and the aforementioned installation, the show engages with themes of diaspora, temporality and becoming. For Coson, who left Manila to pursue her fine art education at Central Saint Martins and The Royal College of Art, this latest body of work articulates a sense of globalisation.  

In the new sculptural work that sits at the centre of the presentation, Coson imitates the way oyster farming is practised in the Philippines, while paying homage to Felix Gonzales Torres’ light chain works. The original oysters are from Aklan in the Visayas region of the Philippines, sourced by the artist with help from her friends at feted Manila restaurant, Toyo Eatery. On the occasion of the new exhibition, which is now open and runs until 12 January 2024, Coson has thoughtfully compiled a guide to her native city — spanning food, art, and more — for Something Curated. The below are her words.

Toyo Eatery

Toyo offers an innovative and creative menu with a strong foothold on Filipino tradition, highlighting the best of local ingredients, producers and artisans. With each meal cleverly encompassing the past present and future of the Philippines, Toyo leaves you always learning a little more about indigenous cooking traditions, what defines contemporary Filipino cuisine and where we are headed through an exploration of the Archipelago’s rich culinary land and seascape. Chef Jordy Navarra helped me source the oysters for the Undercurrents show.

2316, The Alley at Karrivin, Karrivin Plaza, 1231 Chino Roces Ave Ext, Makati, Metro Manila

Panaderya Toyo

Panaderya, which is on the same complex as Toyo Eatery in the Alley at Karrivin, is more than a Filipino bakery — it carries over Toyo’s spirit of approachable ingenuity and folds it into a wide array of savoury and sweet bread-y products like they’re excellent pan au chocolat with patis (fish sauce), mango pangong, an adorable turtle shaped mango filled bun with a crispy crust, and personal favourite saba bicho, a sourdough donut filled and twisted with saba, a starchier stubbier version of banana only edible when cooked to unleash its jammy chewy flesh. I find Panaderya is the perfect place to spend long days sipping coffee, petting cats and grazing on a seemingly endless assortment of Filipino baked goods. I come here to catch up with pals over merienda, the most important meal of the day.

2316 Chino Roces Ave, Makati, 1232 Metro Manila

Milky Way Cafe

Nostalgia hits you hard here no matter where you’re from or how old you are. Established in the 1950s, not much at all has changed about Milky Way Cafe. They’ve consistently kept the same menu, interiors, and loyal clientele who have been coming here for reliably delicious family style lunches comprised of traditional Filipino dishes for generations. It’s familiar home-style cooking at its cosiest. They’re particularly famous for their ginumis and halo halo, both well-loved creamy shaved ice desserts, the former made with coconut cream, brown sugar syrup, and puffed rice, the latter a symphony of jellies, syrupy fruits and seeds, nata de coco, topped with ube ice cream. Half the fun is mixing everything together in the tall milkshake glass with a tiny elongated spoon carefully and without spilling anything over all while keeping conversation going.

900 Antonio Arnaiz Ave, Makati, 1200 Metro Manila

A Mano

Pasta is an all weather food for me and to prove this point, my favourite way to twirl my spaghetti vongole in A Mano is al fresco. The handmade pastas and award winning pizzas are always delicious and it all comes down to the owners extensive knowledge and passion for Italian food done right. I also like the painting by Silverlens Gallery’s Pow Martinez which hangs as the centrepiece in the main dining space.

Lopez Dr, Makati, Metro Manila

78-45-33

My favourite bar for easy listening and easy drinking. Instead of a roaring fire, everyone sits around these beautiful and massive vintage speakers playing records from gallerist Jay Amante’s collection. It’s dim, it’s moody, my kind of place to just sink and drink.

44 LPL Mansions, San Agustin St, Makati, Metro Manila

Cafe Adriatico

If you find yourself in Malate after visiting the Museum of Contemporary Art and Design, Cafe Adriatico is an interesting place to stop for lunch. The deep lacquered wood furniture, stained glass windows and continental menu transport you to back in time with its old world charm and friendly service.

1790 Adriatico St, Malate, Manila, 1004 Metro Manila

MCAD

Lead by Joselina Cruz, the Museum of Contemporary Art and Design is a not-for-profit institution. Housed within the stunning architecture of the College of Saint Benilde’s School of Design and Art, MCAD is the only space in the Philippines that approximates an international contemporary art museum and gallery space. 

Ground Floor, De La Salle-College of Saint Benilde, Design and Arts Campus (D+A Campus), Dominga Street, Malate, 1004 Kalakhang Manila

Silverlens Gallery

Silverlens Gallery has been an important fixture of the Manila art scene for decades. It’s well worth a visit for their programme of contemporary and historically important Filipino art. The gallery is constantly churning out incredible shows by some of the country’s most exciting artistic voices and the space itself is just beautiful. They recently opened a new space in New York where I will be exhibiting in March 2024.

2263 Chino Roces Ave, Ave, Makati, 1231 Metro Manila



Nicole Coson’s Undercurrents is open at Ben Hunter, London until 12 January 2024.



Feature image: Nicole Coson, Undercurrents, installation view at Ben Hunter. Courtesy the artist and Ben Hunter, London. Photography by Damian Griffiths