The Unique and Enduring Brilliance of NYC’s Singular Superiority Burger

It was easy to see why people of all walks enjoyed the original Superiority Burger. Its step-down entrance, marked only by a stencilled spray painted sign, felt special, almost clandestine. The space itself was constantly in motion: tourists and New Yorkers alike unsure of who had ordered and who was “on line”. 

In addition to the burgers (regular, sloppy, yuba and sometimes a special), there were always the vegetable sides. Before I’d ever visited the 119 Avenue hole-in-the-wall, a friend of mine had told me that the sides were better than the burgers themselves – a claim I tested each time I visited, often playing tour guide to eager vegans on pilgrimage to hallowed ground. Though I’d always loved it, at the time I didn’t quite understand the hype.

Superiority Burger’s new location opened in early 2023, just a few feet from the original. Leaning yet further into the aesthetic of the diner-nouveau, it is every bit as buzzy, even on a Tuesday night in December. Its bright white sign states very plainly its offerings: Gelato, Beans, Focaccia, Sometimes. 

For those who relish in the ads for local businesses published on placemats and menus in local diners of old, or for those who don’t remember but appreciate the aesthetic, every detail at Superiority Burger gives a sense that it has been an establishment in business for decades. In a city where the lifespan of new restaurants is always in question, where 10 years of trading feels like ages, and where rising costs have kicked even the most hearty neighbourhood staples to the curb, there is a feeling of “there-ness” to this place, as if it has been and will always be. 

It is a restaurant made up of considered details, little Easter eggs for those who notice. For those interested in ranking the city’s top bathrooms, take note, though I won’t spoil the surprise. Artefacts, both local and far-flung, adorn the walls, a reminder of the cluttered warmth of maximalist style. Chef/owner/mastermind Brooks Headley occasionally pops out from the kitchen to pace the dining room calmly, obliging fans with selfie requests and graciously accepting compliments and thanks from sated guests.

In addition to the two sandwiches (sloppy and yuba), my brother and I ordered a smattering of sides, again eager to dispel the claim of their superiority. The special was sautéed spinach served with dollops of a carrot puree, somehow unrecognisable in flavour, finished with olive oil, a plate licked clean.

Elsewhere, marcella beans were served with escarole, pickled jalapeño and fried halloumi: our favourite dish. I took a spoon to it to lap up the remaining bean-y broth as I awaited my sandwich. Though different than I remembered, the yuba sandwich – encased in a crispy, sub-shaped loaf – was delightfully pulled-porky, savoury and textural.

As always, the food is incredible. Many years after my first few experiences at NYC’s favourite vegetarian hub, I now understand the hype. Superiority Burger in its new iteration does not allow me the chance to grab a sandwich for a quick takeaway lunch at Tompkins Square Park. An act previously known to many as “the move.” 

Now, however, the restaurant is inviting, warm, familiar, and above all, fun. And in that, it’s consistent. It’s everything you’d want in a neighbourhood restaurant. Still, Superiority Burger is well-known across the globe. Perhaps it’s the charm of the “local diner” branding, the punk starpower or Michelin-starred credentials of its chef, its appeal to diners with dietary/lifestyle restrictions. But whatever the case, it continues to shine on one of the world’s biggest culinary stages. 

The hype is real, consistency is king, long live Superiority Burger.

119 Avenue A, New York, NY 10009, United States


Photography by Cole Wilson.