A Local’s Guide to Street Food in Lagos

Lagos street food is vibrant and abundant: In the right neighbourhood, you can find everything from popular fried and roasted snacks like puff puff and roasted yam, to full blown meals suitable for any time of the day. In this guide, we’re focusing on Lagos mainland.

Here are a few of my favourites.

Ewa Agoyin in Alagomeji, Yaba

This spot is called Beans Palace or Ewa Agoyin Center on Queen Street, Yaba.

The Agoyin people come from Nigeria’s neighbouring countries: Togo and Benin Republic. This fried stew made with dried peppers and lots of onions, both are cornerstones of their cuisine. Served with velvety soft honey beans (ewa), fried plantains (dodo), eggs and different meats.

Due to migration, ewa Agoyin has become a staple on the streets across Lagos. This spot offers it fresh and piping hot from early in the morning until evening. You can enjoy it on its own, or with a good helping of fluffy agege bread. Here, they also sell other staples like jollof rice and deliver if you can’t make it to the shop.

Pricing: N1000-2000 for a serving of ewa (beans), fried plantain, boiled egg, stewed ponmo, bread (beef skin) and Agoyin stew.

Roasted Potatoes, Plantains and Red Beans from Adeniran Ogunsanya

This is a street vendor with a vibe: her upbeat and kind personality is a real selling point.

The yam and potatoes are well roasted and soft; the plantain is nice and sweet. Paired with the (very) spicy and umami rich ugba (fermented oil bean) sauce and topped with some utazi (bitter) leaves gives a lovely balance of flavour. The sweet, spicy, crunchy, bitter and umami all in one bite. She’s been there for ages and she’s just one call away. She also serves a red bean stew to go with the roasted yam.

Location: Bassie Ogamba Street, off Adeniran Ogunsanya Street, Surulere.
Pricing: N2000 for a good serving of roasted yam or sweet potatoes, plantains, fish, ponmo and ugba sauce.
+2348184188699

Abula from Iya Moria, University of Lagos

Located inside the legendary University of Lagos (UNILAG), Iya Moria is loved by many who have passed through the university at various stages.

Nestled in its own corner, this enterprise is a testament to the resilience of enterprising women. Iya Moria means ‘mother of Maryam’, as Nigerian women are typically called with the name of their first child. When she became part of the UNILAG community, her husband was the driver to the vice chancellor of the university. She started her business by selling noodles to students in hostels, before she was then able to expand her business and became known for one of the most iconic meals in the Southwestern part of Lagos: Abula.

Abula is amala (made from yam or plantain flour), ewedu (jute leaves), gbegiri (a smooth honey bean stew) and omi obe (tomato and pepper stew made with various meats and fish). Iya Moria is a well-known abula spot and you can be sure the amala will be light and fluffy and the accompanying stews and sauces fresh and flavourful.

Pricing: N1000-3000 for abula and the meat or fish of your choice.

Ofada from Tejuosho 

Located to the far left corner of the steps of the bustling Tejuosho fabric market, this spot is a hidden gem, run by a passionate woman who can be hard to find at times. Aim for mid afternoon – about 2pm and she’s there until she sells out, which can sometimes be before 5pm. The ofada sauce is bubbling away, with miniature sized pieces of beef, ponmo (beef skin), fish, egg and offal. 

Ofada is a place in Ogun state, Nigeria. It is known for this unpolished fermented rice grain. She serves the rice with a sauce made from red peppers, lots of onions and iru (fermented locust beans) to make a fragrant and spicy gravy, fried in palm oil, all wrapped in a fragrant leaf.

Hers is very fragrant, the scent of the leaf mingles with the fermented aroma from the rice. The sauce has a slightly smoky undertone, with lots of spice and lots of umami from the iru. You can choose to have the rice with beans also. Expect a party in your mouth, and perhaps a runny nose. 

Pricing: N1200-N2000 for a plate of ofada rice and spicy sauce with assorted meats and stewed egg.
+234808 430 2799

Suya from Norma

Norma has four locations across Lagos mainland and island.

Suya is a Nigerian street food staple. There is a suya spot on almost every other street corner in the major parts of Lagos. As the sun sets, the coals are lit, grills are prepared, meat is marinated and skewered, and the fragrant aroma fills the air.

What makes good suya is the suya spice, also known as yaji. Yaji is a Northern Nigerian spice blend that has many variations and many applications. For making suya, it’s a blend of fiery vibrant peppers, dried onions, ginger, garlic and peanuts.

Get your suya with extra yaji and freshly sliced red onions. Pair with masa, bread, noodles, and more. The leftovers can be turned into a hearty rice or pasta meal the next day. You can also get rice dishes, seafood offerings, local drinks like zobo and even milkshakes from the extended menu.

The food is fast, yet very well prepared and you can preorder online or get it delivered to you.

Pricing: from N1500 for a stick of suya.

Further reading: MoyosoreOluwa Odunfa-Akinbo’s guide to Lagos’ restaurants.

MoyosoreOluwa Odunfa-Akinbo is a chef and writer based in Lagos Nigeria. She curates Nigerian fine dining experiences with her team at the Àtijẹ Experience. All photography by MoyosoreOluwa Odunfa-Akinbo.