7 Life-Affirming Restaurants in Kuala Lumpur

“Makan makan makan!” is a rallying cry that booms across Malaysia, meaning “let’s eat, let’s eat, let’s eat” — a Malay phrase nowhere more fittingly celebrated than in the country’s capital and largest metropolis, Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia’s complex history, which spans large scale migrations, colonisation and its geographic location sandwiched between multiple Southeast Asian countries, has consequently created a tapestry woven together from Chinese, Malay and Indian influences – as well as Indonesian, Thai, Filipino and indigenous Bornean and Orang Asli flavours. In particular, Kuala Lumpur’s uniqueness stems from these varied demographics: while the majority is ethnically Malay and Chinese, a tenth also have Indian roots, not to mention the Tao Buddhist, Hindu and Muslim communities who live side-by-side.

While spending time in Kuala Lumpur, the epicentre of both Malaysia’s rich cultural heritage and modern urban development, I noticed another common catchphrase. “Boleh” is a versatile word that loosely translates to “can do”, often said in the context of: “we’re Malaysian – we can do anything”! Exclaimed in the same jovial tone as “makan”, the word also captured the excitement in Malaysia’s general spirit towards food: an openness to blending bold flavours from varied inspirations. So, step into a typical open-air hawker centre – the temple of Malaysia’s street food paradise – and embrace the aromas of fragrant, rich curries alongside the wok hei of stir fried noodles, the sheen of banana leaves, spicy, pickled sambals and crunchy, garlicky condiments. For an introduction to the bright menu of what’s possible, here are seven (life changing) street food places to eat in Kuala Lumpur, hand picked from my own joyous meals shared with local Malay friends. Makan!

Jaipur Curry House

Everything I tried in this friendly, casual Malay Indian curry house was 10/10: the roti canai (especially the version with the fried egg), fried chicken, banana leaf curry, nasi goreng with saltfish and even the fresh coconut drink. For dessert, don’t miss out on the tantalisingly sweet and neon green pandan appam with coconut milk.

Restoran Char Siew Yoong

I have genuinely been dreaming of this place since I visited – home to the most deliciously tender and pleasantly sweet chasiu pork. As a HongKonger, the home of Cantonese roast meats, I never thought that I would enjoy chasiu more somewhere other than in my hometown: but the chasiu here was a twist on the Cantonese version, with the pork much softer and saucier. This place began as a street food stall back in the 70s, before it almost shut down – to be rescued by a frequent customer that turned it into a fully fledged restaurant. There are usually lines so be prepared to queue, and I’d highly encourage washing down your meal with a soothing long an herbal tea – as well as take some of the specialist pork jerky for the road.

Hott Chickk

East and Southeast Asia has an obsession with fried chicken, so I love trying it out across the region. Culturally, chicken is a particularly popular meat preference in Malaysia where there is a dominant Muslim population that doesn’t eat pork. This modern, diner-style eatery offers its signature fried chicken in four different spice levels: all served super fresh, crispy and generously seasoned.

Real Penang

Malaysia and Singapore’s ‘frenemies’ dynamic means that there’s a healthy rivalry between their different interpretations of laksa noodles. Singaporean styles often add more ground dried shrimp, whereas the Malaysian version can vary depending on region, often incorporating more acidic elements – such as the Penang variation, which makes their soup with mackerel and a dash of asam or tamarind slices, giving an extra depth and sourness. Try it for yourself at Real Penang, a dimly lit eatery located in a bustling mall food court – and I’d recommend picking up a fresh fruit juice at the drinks stand next door.

Nasi Lemak Shop

Widely considered the Malay national dish, nasi means “rice” and lemak means “creamy-rich”: the fragrant rice dish is cooked in coconut milk and banana leaves. Often eaten for breakfast, nasi lemak consists of coconut rice accompanied by an anchovy-heavy chilli sauce, seasoned with fried anchovies, peanuts, sliced cucumber and a hard boiled egg – as well as usually jazzed up by the addition of fried chicken, assam prawns or chicken curry. This modern, brightly lit joint is popular with young locals for its laid back and comfortable ambience to enjoy the classic dish.

SBay Wanton Mee

In the street food paradise of Kuala Lumpur, I love eating in hawker centres filled with bustling food stands, enveloped in a cacophony of sounds and particular smells. My favourite wanton mee spot (‘wanton’ meaning dumpling in Cantonese, and ‘mee’ meaning noodles in Hokkien) is a stand in a mini hawker centre, run by a highly efficient and diligent uncle forever chopping chasiu pork into slices. Here you can enjoy the Malaysian variation of the traditional Cantonese comfort dish, consisting of wonton dumplings with egg noodles. Don’t forget to order a refreshing iced teh tarik, the Malay signature drink made of black tea with condensed milk, to accompany your meal.

肥佬蟹海鮮樓 (Fatty Crab)

This brightly lit, no-frills institution provides a simple dining experience in an environment that steeped dated nostalgia, where big groups gather on yellowing plastic chairs and round tables covered in old red tablecloths. It’s a major vibe as well as a neighbourhood gem, known for giant sweet and sour crabs covered in its signature spicy gravy, where you can choose between four varying levels of spice. I’d also recommend the fried rice (which has just the right amount of oil) and fried chicken wings, as well as the addictive garlic prawns.

Elaine Zhao is a London-based freelance writer, creative producer, illustrator and DJ from Hong Kong who is deeply interested in covering the experience of all things culture, particularly through an East and South East Asian lens. To read Elaine‘s guides on where to eat in Hong Kong, click here. Header photo: Laksa at Real Penang by Elaine Zhao. All other photography by Elaine Zhao.