The Best Collaborations From London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2020
By Something CuratedAs ever, this season London Fashion Week showcased a breadth of exciting new and emerging talent, alongside established favourites, with a busy schedule of shows and events concluding today, 18 February. With London’s inimitable young designers joining forces with diverse collaborators to create rich new work, Something Curated highlights five of the best linkups of Autumn/Winter 2020.
Paolina Russo x Adidas x Marko Baković
Presenting at the Central Saint Martins MA show, Canadian designer Paolina Russo’s work taps into a familiar nostalgia for the boredom, uncertainty, and naiveté of growing up. Memories of youth sports teams and DIY arts-and-crafts projects inform both the aesthetic and assembly of Russo’s avant-garde garments; she stitches together a medley of upcycled and unconventional materials in jarring colour combinations, returning to the playful brashness of adolescence. Russo’s experimentation with textiles began in her hometown of Markham, Ontario, where she repurposed old sporting equipment from the local community, hand-crocheting the material into wearable collages reminiscent of corsetry. Collaborating with Amsterdam-based footwear studio Marko Bakovic and Adidas, Russo presented some remarkable shoes at the show, including a pair of knee-high cut-out boots comprised of deconstructed trainers.
Eftychia x Rimowa
Central Saint Martins alum Eftychia Karamolegkou has delivered concise collections of adroitly made women’s suiting since graduating, gaining a nomination for last year’s LVMH Prize. Focussed on tailoring, experimenting with fabrics and building signature cuts, for AW20, the designer included notched lapels and concealed pockets on jackets, while playing with contrasting checks on the seams of trousers, as well as introducing new knitwear. Partnering with LVMH’s luxury luggage label Rimowa, founded in 1898 in Cologne, Eftychia’s LFW presentation was built around the concept of a woman who travels often, inevitably finding herself waiting in airports. Models lounged around seating, grasping suitcases to create a stylish interpretation of a very familiar tableau.
Charlotte Knowles x Florence Tétier
For AW20, Charlotte Knowles presented their second independent collection at LFW. Conceived by Knowles and partner Alexandre Arsenault, the collection touched on a breadth of diverse inspirations, featuring exquisitely made harnesses and boned corsets worn over flared trousers, paired with graphic t-shirts. Arresting full leather ensembles, in ochre and orange, were finished with lace up eyelet detailing and delicate crotchet capes. Warmer tones felt new this season, alongside the introduction of a hand-sketched floral print. Standout jewellery was made in collaboration with Novembre Magazine’s Florence Tétier, taking the form of intricate earrings, necklaces, and rings, comprised of contorted sheets of metal, wires, and painted glass.
Ashley Williams x Claire Barrow
Ashley Williams is known for her idiosyncratic sense of humour and juxtaposing inspirations, often reinterpreting and subverting classics. This season, jackets came emblazoned with images of animals and t-shirts borrowed the iconic dancing bears from the Grateful Dead. The collection paid homage to 00s fashion as Williams debuted Samsung’s latest flip phone on the runway, presented in a specially made micro bag. Among the collection’s highlights were a series of looks that appeared towards the end of the show. Haphazardly collaged and airbrushed with off-kilter illustrations, these pieces were created in collaboration with fellow London designer and Westminster University alum Claire Barrow.
Halpern x Isamaya Ffrench
Within four years, New York-born, London-based designer Michael Halpern has polished his unapologetic take on glamour, attracting a burgeoning international clientele. This season, Halpern chose his venue, The Old Bailey, apparently because everyone is equal in the eyes of the law, or are supposed to be. On the catwalk, flared jumpsuits glistened with ripple effect sequins, and a python pantsuit made a standout appearance. Halpern refers to British fashion icons Zandra Rhodes, Bill Gibb and Ossie Clarke as key inspirations. The striking makeup, courtesy of powerhouse artist Isamaya Ffrench was created with crushed quartz crystals, pasted around the models’ eyes. Ffrench studied sculpture and product design before entering beauty, and her 3D background is evident here.
Feature image via @eftychia_co