Dreaming of Xi’an: Inside the Kitchen of ‘Chef’s Table’ Star Guirong Wei in London

As told to Adam Coghlan.

I first came to London in 2008 for a job opportunity at Barshu, a restaurant in central London’s Chinatown. At that time, I noticed many of my colleagues were moving abroad for work. They often mentioned that working overseas not only offered better pay but also a chance to open their minds. Inspired by this, I decided to make the move myself. I stayed at Barshu for seven years. 

In 2015, I opened Xi’an Impression in Islington and, my second restaurant, Master Wei in Holborn in 2019. Unfortunately, the COVID-19 pandemic delayed the opening of my second Master Wei branch. However, it eventually launched in November 2023 in Hammersmith. Following that, in February 2024, I opened Dream Xi’an, just across from the Tower of London.

I worked at Xi’an Impression for four years before starting Master Wei. My husband, Yong Song, who is also a professional chef, stayed in charge of Xi’an Impression. When I launched Master Wei, I dedicated most of my time to its operations and during the pandemic, I worked at Master Wei Holborn every day, striving to maintain food quality and overcome the challenges of that period.

When Master Wei Hammersmith opened, I focused on training the team to ensure the same high standards as Holborn. The delays in fitting out the Hammersmith branch meant it took 18 months to complete, which caused its launch to coincide closely with the opening of Dream Xi’an. This overlap was not part of my original plan, and it made for an especially challenging period. I had to run between both restaurants, working hard to ensure they each had a strong start and upheld the high quality that our customers expect.

Earlier this year, I was featured in Netflix’s Chef’s Table Noodles series.

Here are the things I use in my kitchen every day – the things I cannot live and work without.

Rolling pin

Guirong Wei: Rolling pins are essential tools in my cooking—I rely on them every day. I have one with both ends tapered, which I use specifically for making traditional Shaanxi-style baijimo flatbreads. It has a nickname called fish-belly rolling pin, .using the fish-belly rolling pin ensures a more authentic texture and appearance.

The tapered ends allow me to easily control the pressure and the dough naturally forms a bowl-like shape, which helps create the signature crispy exterior and soft interior that make Baijimo(flatbread) unique.

The other rolling pin is for making hand-pulled noodles. Before I can pull the dough into noodles, I need to flatten it first, so the rolling pin is really important for this step. A good rolling pin made from high-quality wood or bamboo works best because it has a smooth, non-stick surface. This helps prevent the dough from sticking and makes it much easier for me to roll evenly, which is key to getting the right texture and consistency for the noodles.

Flour 

GW: Wheat flour is the soul of Xi’an cuisine and its importance is deeply rooted in the region’s agricultural history and climate. While rice dominates much of southern China due to its warm, wet climate, Shaanxi’s cooler, drier conditions are ideal for growing wheat. Through an annual wheat harvest cycle, high standard wheat flour ensures a rich flour-based culinary culture in Shaanxi. This is one of the key reasons why the region boasts such a diverse variety of noodle and flour-based dishes. 

Shaanxi Twisted Chillies

GW: My sister, who is a wholesaler, helps me select chilies in Shaanxi. In China, each region has its own unique variety of chili, each with distinct flavors and characteristics.

In Shaanxi, our string chili peppers are known for their vibrant, glossy red color. They aren’t overly spicy but instead have a rich, fragrant aroma. When hot oil is poured over them, their aroma is released, making the dish irresistibly appetizing.

Garlic

GW: A versatile and essential ingredient, garlic brings depth and flavor to my dishes. In a week, across the restaurants, we go through a massive amount: 25 kg.

Coffee

GW: I’m a big fan of coffee, and every morning, I start my day with a large latte. I usually buy it at Sutton Station from an independent café run by a hardworking couple. Their lattes are incredibly smooth, and I always look forward to them. If I’m in central London, Costa is my go-to choice. 

I drink this instant coffee in the restaurants as well. 

Hairband 

GW: I have a collection of hairbands for different occasions. I like to wear a simple one while cooking to keep my hair tidy, allowing me to focus better on my work. It also helps me maintain a neat appearance and meet hygiene standards in the kitchen. 

Because my friend’s daughter knows I love hairbands, she chose this one as my Christmas gift. She found it at a pop-up shop in Wimbledon while browsing around. I think it’s very festive and beautiful, and I truly appreciate her thoughtful gesture. 

Notebook

I keep all of my notebooks. I rely on them a lot. I use them to jot down notes for my daily operations, send orders to my suppliers, and capture inspirations for new dishes. I’ve realized that it’s easy to forget things because of my busy schedule, so writing everything down helps me stay organized and keep my mind clear.

The one pictured I bought from China. I like collecting notebooks.

Wei Guirong lives in south London and cooks across her three restaurants: in Holborn, Hammersmith and You can watch her in episode 2 of Netflix’s new Chef’s Table Noodle series here.

Photography by Michaël Protin.