Dreaming of Xi’an: Inside the Kitchen of ‘Chef’s Table’ Star Guirong Wei in London

During the course of the last 15 years, 36-year-old Guirong Wei has established herself among London’s preeminent Chinese chefs and the one at the vanguard of Xi’an cuisine and the culture of biang biang noodles around it. Having first put down roots at the now-cult favourite Xi’an Impression in the shadow of the Emirates stadium almost a decade ago, in the last four years Guirong has quadrupled the number of restaurants she oversees in her adopted city: Two branches of Master Wei, in Holborn and Hammersmith, respectively, and most recently, Dream Xi’an in Tower Bridge, where Something Curated met Guirong on a grey and drizzly day earlier this month.

“I first came to London [from Xi’an] in 2008 for a job opportunity at Barshu, a restaurant in central London’s Chinatown. At that time, I noticed many of my colleagues were moving abroad for work. They often mentioned that working overseas not only offered better pay but also a chance to open their minds,” Guirong says. “Inspired by this, I decided to make the move myself.” She stayed at Barshu for seven years, before going alone and never looking back.

Guirong moves around her kitchen with the seriousness and steel of a chef who barely stops working but she can’t obscure the kind and generous soul responsible for one of London’s most beloved brands of regional Chinese cooking. But those talents are now rightly being recognised from further afield, too: Earlier this year, the chef was featured in Netflix’s Chef’s Table Noodles series. The beginning, perhaps, of the next era of Wei Guirong.

Here are the things she uses in her kitchen every day – the things she cannot live nor work without. Told in her own words.

Rolling pin

Guirong Wei: Rolling pins are essential tools in my cooking—I rely on them every day. I have one with both ends tapered, which I use specifically for making traditional Shaanxi-style baijimo flatbreads. It has a nickname called fish-belly rolling pin, .using the fish-belly rolling pin ensures a more authentic texture and appearance.

The tapered ends allow me to easily control the pressure and the dough naturally forms a bowl-like shape, which helps create the signature crispy exterior and soft interior that make Baijimo(flatbread) unique.

The other rolling pin is for making hand-pulled noodles. Before I can pull the dough into noodles, I need to flatten it first, so the rolling pin is really important for this step. A good rolling pin made from high-quality wood or bamboo works best because it has a smooth, non-stick surface. This helps prevent the dough from sticking and makes it much easier for me to roll evenly, which is key to getting the right texture and consistency for the noodles.

Flour 

GW: Wheat flour is the soul of Xi’an cuisine and its importance is deeply rooted in the region’s agricultural history and climate. While rice dominates much of southern China due to its warm, wet climate, Shaanxi’s cooler, drier conditions are ideal for growing wheat. Through an annual wheat harvest cycle, high standard wheat flour ensures a rich flour-based culinary culture in Shaanxi. This is one of the key reasons why the region boasts such a diverse variety of noodle and flour-based dishes. 

Shaanxi Twisted Chillies

GW: My sister, who is a wholesaler, helps me select chilies in Shaanxi. In China, each region has its own unique variety of chili, each with distinct flavors and characteristics.

In Shaanxi, our string chili peppers are known for their vibrant, glossy red color. They aren’t overly spicy but instead have a rich, fragrant aroma. When hot oil is poured over them, their aroma is released, making the dish irresistibly appetizing.

Garlic

GW: A versatile and essential ingredient, garlic brings depth and flavor to my dishes. In a week, across the restaurants, we go through a massive amount: 25 kg.

Coffee

GW: I’m a big fan of coffee, and every morning, I start my day with a large latte. I usually buy it at Sutton Station from an independent café run by a hardworking couple. Their lattes are incredibly smooth, and I always look forward to them. If I’m in central London, Costa is my go-to choice. 

I drink this instant coffee in the restaurants as well. 

Hairband 

GW: I have a collection of hairbands for different occasions. I like to wear a simple one while cooking to keep my hair tidy, allowing me to focus better on my work. It also helps me maintain a neat appearance and meet hygiene standards in the kitchen. 

Because my friend’s daughter knows I love hairbands, she chose this one as my Christmas gift. She found it at a pop-up shop in Wimbledon while browsing around. I think it’s very festive and beautiful, and I truly appreciate her thoughtful gesture. 

Notebook

I keep all of my notebooks. I rely on them a lot. I use them to jot down notes for my daily operations, send orders to my suppliers, and capture inspirations for new dishes. I’ve realized that it’s easy to forget things because of my busy schedule, so writing everything down helps me stay organized and keep my mind clear.

The one pictured I bought from China. I like collecting notebooks.

Wei Guirong lives in south London and cooks across her three restaurants: in Holborn, Hammersmith and You can watch her in episode 2 of Netflix’s new Chef’s Table Noodle series here.

Photography by Michaël Protin.