A History of the Kolhapuri Chappal

“We acknowledge the sandals… are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage… We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship. Please note that, for now, the entire collection is currently at an early stage of design development, and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced or commercialised. We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities,” wrote Lorenzo Bertelli, Head of Corporate Social Responsibility at Prada, in a letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce last week.

The words arrived after an international backlash following the Italian house’s Spring/Summer 2026 Men’s show, which included some very familiar footwear: the Kolhapuri chappal. It wasn’t so much their presence on the runway that irked many people, as much as it was the lack of acknowledgement from where the design had come from. Long before their appearance on European runways, these leather sandals were being handcrafted in the towns and villages of western Maharashtra, India.

The story of the Kolhapuri chappal begins in the 12th century, in the city of Kolhapur, from which it takes its name. Originally, these sandals were created by skilled artisans for specific communities – sturdy, heavy-soled versions for farmers; lighter, ornate versions for nobles and courtiers. Each pair was crafted to suit the wearer’s life and work.

Kolhapuris were once known by many names – Kapashi, Paytaan, Kachkadi, Bakkalnali, Pukri – each indicating the village where a particular style was made. Even today, their design varies subtly by region, but the core elements remain: open-toed, often with a toe loop for grip; plaited or braided leather uppers; and tough, flat soles made from buffalo hide. The decorative touches – golden cords, delicate punching, floral patterns – are all done by hand.

Production is still largely centred in Kolhapur, Sangli, Satara and Solapur in Maharashtra, and Bagalkot, Belgaum, Dharwad and Bijapur in Karnataka. In neighbourhoods like Subash Nagar in Kolhapur, families from the Chamar community continue to work with leather, cutting, skiving, stitching, polishing – a process that can take up to six weeks per pair. Traditionally, all materials were natural – buffalo hide, goat leather, and stitching cords made from the buffalo’s tail – though in recent years, nylon and synthetic substitutes have crept in.

In the 1970s, the Indian footwear found a new international fanbase: American hippies. Drawn to their handcrafted appeal, associated in the West with a sort of bohemian charm, Kolhapuris were packed into suitcases and carried across oceans. From there, they began to appear in boutiques and vintage stores across the US.

Like Champagne, Pashmina wool, and Parmigiano Reggiano, in 2019, Kolhapuri chappals received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, formally recognising their unique regional origin and traditional methods. This accreditation was as much about cultural preservation as it was about economics. Once seen as a symbol of elegance and tradition, Kolhapuris have struggled in the face of low-cost imitations, falling demand, and tightening environmental restrictions on leather tanning.

Despite these challenges, the sandals have shown remarkable staying power. While the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce is now working to patent Kolhapuri chappals to protect the design worldwide and prevent unauthorised use, their appearance on Prada’s runway has had a short-term silver lining for Kolhapuri makers. Since the controversy, The Times of India reported the interest in Kolhapuris has surged, with online sales at an all time high. Younger Indians are rediscovering the sandal’s legacy – not as a relic but as a living symbol of their heritage.



Feature image: Kolhapuri chappals. Photo: Pinterest