Where to Gallery Hop, Feast and Flirt in Istanbul — with Curator Gigi Surel
By Gigi SurelIstanbul hums with anticipation. The city readies itself for the opening chapter of the 18th Istanbul Biennial, The Three-Legged Cat, on 20 September, while Contemporary Istanbul will unfold later in the month. It feels fitting in this moment to turn to Gigi Surel – a curator and collector who grew up in Istanbul and now calls London home. As founder of Teaspoon Projects, a roaming curatorial platform dedicated to immersive forms of storytelling, Gigi has built a reputation for weaving art, literature, and lived experience into itinerant worlds. Teaspoon’s new exhibition Look at the Lights, My Love opens this week at Filet Space, with a private view today, 10 September, from 6–8pm. From the Bosphorus to Shoreditch, Gigi’s work connects cities and audiences through curiosity and intimacy. Here, she shares with Something Curated her personal guide to the galleries, restaurants, shops, and hidden corners of the city where she first fell in love with art.
-ˏˋ ★ ˎˊ- Gigi Surel’s Guide to Istanbul -ˏˋ ★ ˎˊ-
THE PILL
One of my favorite galleries in Istanbul, THE PILL is a bold contemporary art space founded in 2016 in the city’s historic peninsula. It’s become a cross-cultural platform – blurring borders, amplifying local voices, and hosting ambitious exhibitions. They represent incredible artists like Nil Yalter and Leyla Gediz. Currently on view: Looking Sideways: A Guide to Misinterpreting Myself by Aziza Shadenova (Sept 13–Nov 8, 2025).
They also have a space in Paris, so if you’re heading in October – pop in.
Zeyrek Çinili Hamam
Just a quick minute drive from THE PILL, this is not your average bath house. A 16th-century Turkish bath restored over 13 years and reopened in 2024, it’s a UNESCO-protected site blending ritual bathing, art, and archaeology. Expect a spiritual, restorative escape layered with history. There’s also a museum and site-specific exhibitions – the last featured London’s Anousha Payne.
Istanbul Modern
The city’s premier modern and contemporary art museum – and the first museum I’ve ever visited. Located inside the Galataport complex (where you can shop and eat literally anything), it offers mesmerizing Bosphorus views. Currently hosting three exhibitions, with multidisciplinary programming that’s especially dynamic in September. Don’t miss Ali Kazma’s photography show.
Mel’s
A thoughtfully curated vintage wonderland in Beyoğlu, run by Melissa, one of the coolest people in Istanbul (and an Ivy League grad). It’s better to book an appointment – follow her on Instagram. Expect Betty Boop tees, Fendi baguettes at reasonable prices, and plenty of great conversation. Tip: afterwards, grab a coffee from Norre around the corner, then walk to Istanbul Modern.
Tavern
Right next to Mel’s, Tavern has truly exceptional cocktails and even better vibes. Small space, chic bar, refined flavours, and intimate evening energy. Their bio is a floating soul + sexy lil bites and they are a melting point that welcomes everyone. Open daily, walk-in only. It’s super relaxed and you can easily meet both locals and travellers. Check their Instagram for music nights… and once you’re there, flirt the night away!
Kapalıçarşı (Grand Bazaar)
The 15th-century icon. Endless jewelry, gold, coral, jade – everything. Perfect for sensory immersion: scents, colours, craftsmanship, and tea with locals. Try to go on a weekday and haggle like you mean it.
Hamdi
Legendary kebabs and panoramic Golden Horn views. Family favorite since childhood – order the pistachio kebab or Iskender, and try to snag an outdoor table. They’ve been around 50+ years, and their baklava is great to take away.
IstinyePark
Yes, it’s a mall – but a chic, non-overwhelming one with a luxurious outdoors space. Great restaurants, local/international brands, and a food hall with spices, coffee, and sweets (perfect for those who find the Grand Bazaar too intense). Check out Beymen – Turkey’s answer to Selfridges.
Eskiyer
Head downhill from IstinyePark to Yeniköy for Bosphorus views and a relaxed raki-and-fish vibe. Eskiyer blends local delicacies with a twist – pismanye cheesecake, shrimp manti – and serves great cocktails if you’re not into raki. Always a lively crowd.
Bebek Hotel
Boutique hotel with jaw-dropping Bosphorus views and a serious scene. Whether it’s omakase, a Turkish breakfast spread, or afternoon drinks that turn into an all-night party, Bebek delivers. The area is perfect for a stroll – especially between Bebek and Arnavutköy, where you’ll see colourful buildings and cute boats.
Feature image: Istanbul, Turkey. Courtesy Burak The Weekender / Pexels